Last week I got probably the most complex question I have ever received from someone who reads the blog.  After an exchange of emails Shawn summarized/limited his question to the following.  This basically is the same question that John from South Dakota had but I'm looking for more examples. I am talking ice fishing for walleye around reefs,sharp breaks on shorelines and river mouths. The waters I fish most of the time is Little Bay de Noc. My hope is to feel confident looking at my lake master of any body of water and drilling one hole on a spot for good reason. Like you said if you only can drill one hole you gotta make it count!

After a week of thought on the subject I figured I better put my thoughts down and get a blog post up trying to tackle the question above.  However, over the week I kept thinking this subject is better fit for a book versus my blog.  But, here is my attempt to answer Shawn's question in brief form and a lot of it has to do with a piece I wrote a few years ago titled "Eliminate the Dead Water".  In summary that piece was about using technology to eliminate much of the water that does not hold fish and focus on those areas that you can easily identify as a spot that should hold fish.  By doing this you eliminate much of the dead water in a lake and focus your efforts on those spots that do.

Obviously prime fishing spots change with the seasons but Shawn's question focused on a few specifics, Ice Fishing, reefs, sharp breaks and river mouths.  The good thing about this is that they are all excellent spots to find walleye through the ice.  But, one thing you need to know is how to approach these spots.  For ice fishing I do it pretty much the same all year.  Start shallow, move deeper and end the day back shallow again.  For the most part that pattern holds true on any spot, at any time of the year if you are after walleye.  In general, walleye will move up and feed shallower during low light periods and retreat to deeper water during daylight hours.  Understanding this basic walleye concept is important no matter what lake you fish and should always be in the back of your mind when you are looking at a spot.

If I am fishing a deep rock reef surrounded by a mud basin or large sand flat I drill my holes up on the shallowest part of the reef and then work my way out with the auger until I have holes punched well off the structure.  If I am fishing in the morning then I will have all my holes drilled in the dark and ready to fish well before first light.  If this is the case I will start up top fishing the holes and work my way out looking for fish.  I operate with the belief that if the structure is right, the fish are there somewhere, I just need to find them.  As the sun rises in the AM sky I start to focus my efforts on those holes I drilled hours ago out around the structure trying to find those fish that have slid off the structure and are not actively feeding anymore.  In the evening the migration is reversed and you start in those deep holes and as it gets darker you "move up" with the fish and end the night up on the shallowest portion of the structure.  This pattern works the same on shoreline breaks as well as river mouths.

The one difference with a river mouth is you have the addition of current which alone can change the feeding patterns of fish.  While many of the fish can be found actively feeding directly out from the river mouth, where runoff over time has created a large shallow feeding flat.  I also like to target those steeper breaks on the main lake side of the river mouth.  Many fish while not actively feeding up shallow can be found staging on these steep breaks.  I am not talking about the river channel break but rather the shoreline break the runs perpendicular to the river current entering the lake, just outside the river mouth.  As outlined above the same pattern holds true, target these deep breaks until just before dark and them "move up" with the fish as they feed.

As you read this there are a few common themes that keep repeating themselves.  First, walleye tend to stage at the bottom of a steep breaks or just off their feeding structure.  Second, several times a day fish will "move up" to actively feed if conditions are right.  Third, to be successful you need to follow the fish as they make this transition, whether that be deep to shallow or vice versa. Lastly, drilling only one hole for walleye may get you a few fish as they transition right past you but the bite window will be short.  Keep After Em (which is the title of an old blog post that is still available), and you will find yourself far more successful on the ice.
 

The picture above is a classic area illustrating a river entering a lake. The arrows not only represent the current flow but also areas I would drill to look for walleye at "peak" time or just before dark and first light.  The checks represent spots I would look for staging daytime walleye when they are not "up" actively feeding.  Hopefully this illustration helps make the point I was trying to cover.  As you can see, using a Digital Contour Map like I have here helps you pick out those spots that "should" hold fish before you hit the water.  If I was fishing this area, I can promise you I would have a hole drilled on each one of the spots marked, plus several in between so that I can follow the fish as they transition.

I get a lot of ice fishing questions this time of year.  Most would think that these would involve ice fishing electronics, and many do.  But, the number one question I get this time of year is about tip-up fishing.  I have written a lot about tip-up fishing over the last three years and those pieces are still available here in the archives.  The "Flag-UP" series I wrote two years ago continues to be referenced by people when looking for information.

Most people that email me are looking for what I use as a basic set-up.  My basic set-up is just that, basic.  Ok, it may be basic but it is effective and requires very minimal changes when switching species.  Here is how you get started.

First you have to start with a tip-up.  You can use whatever brand you like, just make sure the spool has enough capacity for the line I am going to recommend.  Then, make sure your tip-up spins freely, even at cool temperatures.  If you have that, you are ready for some ice line.

I use black Ice Line because it is very strong, yet has some stretch.  Stretch is important because essentially the line stretch is what is going to keep your fish hooked up and reduce stress on the business end of things.  I prefer about 40 lb ice line, not necessarily for its strength but for it diameter.  You need a thick enough line that you are not getting tangled as you pile it on the ice while fighting a fish.

After you have a full spool of line I add a barrel slip sinker to the system.  The slip sinker should be fed onto the black ice line and then tied on with a swivel.  You want to use a big enough swivel so the sinker can not hang up on it.  As for the sinker, I like to use 1/4 ounce of walleye and 1/2 ounce for pike.

Essentially you are finished with your basic set-up.  You have a tip-up system that is ready  after you add something on the terminal end.  But, this set-up will allow you to fish just about any species without having to change anything besides your terminal leader/hook.  The main line is set.  When you get a bite the slip sinker will fall to the bottom of the lake and the main line will slip threw it without resistance.  This is the same set-up I have used for the last five years with great success and the same set-up I use today.  I have changed my terminal tackle some over the years but I will save that for another piece. 

Ice Time is here!  It was 7 degrees on my way into the office this AM and as I looked at the trees I noticed it was dead calm.  Calm and 7 degrees means we made some really good ice last night.  After very cold weekend and very minimal snow (at least in central MN) the ice should be ready to go very soon.  There is no doubt that people will be out ice fishing over Thanksgiving weekend, as I was able to walk on my pond up North last weekend while doing some scouting for late season muzzleloader.

I know some of you are very organized and in fall spend days slowly moving your ice fishing gear to the front of your shed and test all your equipment even prior to the hunting season.  But, if you are like me and the ice stuff stays in the back of the shed until I need it, here are a few quick tips to expedite your transition to the ice season.

Get that ice flasher out and put the battery on the charger.  Now, while that battery is charging, run to the store and buy another 12v battery.  Yes, I said go buy a new one.  When you get home, put the new battery in your flasher and charge that one.  For $12 you just bought a very cheap fishing trip insurance policy and have a back-up flasher battery.  You WILL thank me for this some day when you get to the ice and have a dead battery.  Batteries are cheap and with the investment in ice fishing, you owe it to yourself to have a back-up battery.  Plus, you have the peace of mind knowing you have a new battery in your flasher.

I also like to test my transducer before and during the season as it is the most important part of your ice flasher.  To do this, turn the flasher on and listen that the transducer is ticking, if it is, hang the transducer one foot from the floor (hard/flat surface works best) and check that you get a nice return signal on your flasher.  The return signal should be roughly between 3-5 feet on your flasher dial.  Turn your gain up to MAX if you are not getting a return and use wide angle Beam if you have a dual beam transducer.  You should get a second and third echo returns with the Gain on the maximum setting.

Now, get the auger out and dispose of the gas in the auger. Yes, I know you treated your gas last spring before you put the auger away and ran it, but replace it with fresh gas that has been treated with a little Sea Foam.  Assuming your auger starts, it will be much happier running the first trip out with fresh treated gas and this will pay dividends as the year goes on.

Lastly, set up your portable and put the seats in it.  Sit on the seats and make sure they are not loose.  Then, tip them over and check the screws underneath the seat to make sure they are still tight.  These screws can work loose from the extreme beating they take while being towed.  Also, check for mice holes and that you have all your poles in it. There is nothing worse then getting out and finding out mice have chewed up your portable material and your portable smells like mice.

There are a ton of other things that can and should be checked.  I recommend you check the ice line on your ice rods/reels and well as check that you have an ice scoop.  I keep an extra ice scoop in my ice house sled because it never fails that I forget to bring one with.

These are just a few tips or suggestions.  There are a lot more I could list but the idea is to get you thinking about your ice fishing gear that has been sitting in the corner or your shed or garage for the last seven months.  Now is the time to get out there and check it out!

Here we sit, that time of year when most ice anglers are scratching their heads wondering why the fish aren't biting anymore.  Well, to be honest, I am left scratching my head this time of year also wondering what is the best way to put some fish on the ice.  Yes, there are lakes that have excellent bites going right now, but, for the most part it is that time of year. Typical Mid-February in Minnesota, about 3 feet of ice another foot of snow which equals tough fishing.  You know that time of year when people start thinking they have had enough of this cold and snow and are taking a vacation to a warmer destination.  Well, here we are!

So, what do we do to up our odds at putting some fish on ice?  First, you can forget those lakes that had great day bites going on early in the year.  When lakes first ice up, the dissolved oxygen levels are much higher than they are right now and fish are active throughout the day.  At this time of year I prefer to stick to the peak periods at first light and last light.  The bite may still be tough but I prefer to fish when they want to bite versus when they don't.  Fish have to move to feed and when oxygen levels get low, they keep their movement to a minimum and only move when they need to feed.

I don't want to get to into dissolved oxygen levels that much but next to forage levels in lakes they effect the bite the most.  Essentially when Oxygen levels get low fish go into survival mode and restrict their movement to things that they need to survive, which, for a fish, is basically breath and eat.  The good part about having low oxygen levels for the angler is that in general it concentrates the fish in the part of lake with the highest Dissolved Oxygen levels.  Usually this is the deepest part of the lake or near a water inlet.  When Oxygen levels get extremely low however, fish are usually found over deep water near at the top of the water column, just under the ice.  Occasionally these fish will bite but for the most part are just trying to survive and often times hard to catch.

If you want to up your odds at catching fish this time of year see the following list:

• Fish Deep Water
• Target Lakes that are River Fed
• Fish the Peak Times the Day
• Slow Down your Presentation
• Fish Deep Lakes
• Try Open Water Fishing While on Vacation

There is no doubt the bite gets tough this time of year.  There isn't anyone that would tell you different as it happens every year.  The list above should help you choose the lakes you fish this time of year and may help put some more fish on the ice.  The other option is to pack up your ice house and head up to the International Eelpout Festival in Walker MN this weekend.  Usually the Eelpout are willing to bite any time of year and even if you don't wet a line you can have a great time spending the weekend on the ice.

People the read my blog and keep up with the new material know I love to fish for big Bluegill.  And, based on all the email and questions I get, apparently other peole enjoy fishing bull gills also.  Last week I had the opportunity to hit one of my favorite lakes in Northern Minnesota for Giant Bluegill and once again it did not disappoint.  So, what lake were you fishing you ask.  Well, that is not important, I have talked plenty about this lake.  What is important is the way I go about targeting trophy bluegill this time of year.

Since we are basically in the middle of winter, you know that point where the average temps are suppose to rise each day but never seem to do so.  That point where the ice is over 20 inches thick and you can just about drive anywhere as long as the snow allows.  That point where the local anglers in most spots are complaining about the bite and how tough it is.   Yes, we all know what I am talking about.  So, what do you do?

First, you have to realize that the fish have been under the ice for almost two months now and oxygen levels are getting low in most lakes.  Low oxygen leads to inactive fish in most lakes and a void of fish in many of the shallow water hot spots that are popular early ice.  It is time to change your old ways and use technology to put some fish on the ice.  They are still there and willing to bite with a few modifications to your program.

When I say technology, I mean get out your GPS and LakeMaster mapping chip and find a new spot that incorporates deep water near a shallow feeding shelf.  On a LakeMaster map it will look like steep contours near a point or shallow flat.  However, for the most part you can forget about the shallow feeding flat and concentrate on the deep water.  With low oxygen levels fish spend very little time feeding in shallow water.  In fact, unless you fish just at first light or at dark, the shallow water in most lakes may be void of fish right now.

Those fish that you are accustomed to catching shallow are roaming the deep basin near that feeding shelf.  You need to get out your auger and drill out that deep water using your flasher to look for fish.  If you don't find fish, drop a bait down each hole and see if you can get them to show up.  I generally give each hole less than a minute while looking for these fish.  For the most part, they will be relating to the bottom 10 feet of the water column but may not be on the bottom.  The higher off the bottom you find them, the more likely they are to bite. 

Once you locate these basin fish you should have an excellent bite between 8-11AM and 1-4 PM.  As I mentioned earlier, before 8 AM and after 4 PM you may want to look back in that shallow water because despite low oxygen levels the fish will still use shallow water to feed.  However, locating the fish is only half the battle.  These basin fish don't stay in one spot very long, sot is not uncommon to continue to have to move from hole to hole to stay after them  If you chose to stay in one place it becomes a waiting game as the schools of roaming fish move around but they do generally come back.  If you want to up your odds, you have to keep after them!

It is that time of year to get out and look for those deep water fish.  By doing so you may be rewarded with some of the biggest bluegill in the system.  I was fortunate to connect with this 10.5 inch giant bluegill last week while targeting these basin giants.  We did catch about 30 bluegill on the day with most averaging 9 inches.  This one was the only bluegill that broke the 10 inch mark and being big and fat like it was, I would estimate about 1.4 pounds.  It is interesting to note that last year I got a 10.25 inch bluegill in the same spot and it weighed 1 pound 3 ounces.  So, keep after those big bulls, they are out there and are still willing to bite when you find them!

Once again there seems to be a great interest in Tip-Up fishing Northern Pike.  For me pike fishing is about as fun as it gets.  Don't get me wrong, walleye, perch, bluegill, crappie, they all have a place in my heart and I enjoy fishing them all.  But, a good trip Tip-up fishing pike is hard to beat.  However, as anyone that pike fishes knows that if the pike aren't going or you don't have the right bait down there, it can be awfully boring also.  Watching tip-ups all day the don't "tip-up" at all is,well, like watching paint dry.

My first tip is usually the same, fish good lakes. Some lakes have a huge populations of small fish.  These lakes are usually good for action even in poor conditions but rarely yield fish of any size.  Basically it becomes a race to the food and usually the little fish  win which results in good action, but lots of little fish. However, some lakes have good populations of pike with a good size distribution.  These lakes would be considered "balanced" and are your best bet at some good numbers and size.  These are the lakes that I like to target.  Perfect examples of lakes that are "balanced" here in Minnesota are Red Lake and Lake of the Woods.  Both lakes offer excellent pike fishing.

My second tip to making your pike trips more successful is plan them at a good time.  So, what is a good time?  In Minnesota the best pike trips are usually the last week or two of the ice fishing season for pike.  Most years this is toward the end of April.  For those border waters and other states that have a year around pike season, the later the better.  The reason timing is so important is because as it gets later in the ice season, the female pike start to feed aggressively as they prepare to spawn.  You can usually see the increase in activity in mid February and the shallow water bite gets better as it gets later in March.

My third tip is to use good equipment.  We have all made the mistake of watching a tip-up for hours that did not go up only to find that the line is tangled or wrapped and the bait is gone.  If your equipment is not working property or is all froze up, getting bites does you no good, as you won't even get a flag to trigger, been there, done that!  Use good tip-ups that are set correctly so they work every time.  Make sure when you set the tip-up that the line can free spool easily and the flag goes up when the line is pulled. I can't stress enough how important this is.

My forth tip is to use the right bait for the job.  Use good bait that targets what you are after.  If you are after big pike, use big bait.  If are after numbers, use smaller live bait.  I prefer a combination of live and dead-bait on my set-ups.  I use the Frabill Bait Station to keep my large chubs alive, as they can be very hard to keep alive and active.  I use freshly frozen dead-bait also, preferable dead smelt.  By using a combination of live and dead bait I know I have down there something that they will eat on most days.

My last tip is pick your trips carefully.  I like to watch the weather for favorable conditions for pike fishing.  I prefer sun during my midwinter trips and fairly stable conditions.  I know you can not control the weather but you are more likely to get pike to bite if you use the weather to your advantage.  There are some days that pike after pike will come through and will not bite and there isn't much you can do.  So, try to pick nice stable weather when they are more likely to be biting.  In addition, don't overlook the hours between 10AM and 2PM.  Quite often the best pike fishing happens between these hours.  I can honestly say, they are my best hours when targeting pike.

I have a lot more to add to this piece but we will save that for part two.  I have several pike trips coming up and I hope to put what I write to action very soon.  Time to get packed as I have a trip to Lake of the Woods coming up in a day.

There has been a lot of talk lately about how pressure and weather effect fishing.  Specifically immediately after cold front conditions when high pressure has moved in and you are battling some fish that are unwilling to cooperate under these conditions.  Below is actually a piece I wrote last year on basically the same subject and since we just went through a few weeks of these conditions, I thought I would bring this one back.

Before we get ahead of ourselves we need to step back and talk a little about pressure.  As humans we are relegated to looking at a barometer to determine pressure changes.  Ok, yes I know, everyone has an uncle or grandfather that can tell when the pressure is falling because their left knee starts to hurt.  But, if you don't, you need to look at a barometer. Fish and most animals are much different, as they thrive in an environment where pressure, in combination with temp, time of year and daylight often drive their daily habits.

There is no disputing that changes in pressure effect fishing.  However, how and to what degree is something that can be debated forever.  For the sake of this piece we will deal with the scenario Joe asked about, cold front conditions with high pressure.  Anyone who has ever ice fished can related to these conditions, as we tend to see them a lot in the upper Midwest.  In fact, the previouos two weeks were a prefect example of these conditions.  So, what do I do to get fish to bite under these conditions?

First, to be successful in tough conditions, choose a lake that is known to have a good bite going this year.   Poor fishing conditions are not the time to be out sampling new spots or lakes you are unfamiliar with.  Pick a proven lake and a proven spot and you will up your odds significantly.  You know, one of those lakes that seems to be a good lake for ice fishing year after year.

Second, fish when the fish are biting.  I know this changes from day to day but for the most part, fish are more aggressive in the morning and evening so plan your trips around the time they "should" be biting.  They may not be biting, but your up your odds significantly by fishing when the should be biting.

Use good equipment!  Anyone that reads this blog knows I run Humminbird Flashers on the ice.  At a minimum, a flasher is a must under tough conditions.  When fish are not biting, it certainly helps to know they are down there.  Using your flasher, you can see how the fish are reacting to your bait.  Can you get that fish to chase your bait?  Will that fish come up more than 3ft off the bottom?  What is their reaction when you jig aggressively?  What do they do when you stop jigging?  A flasher will help you determine the mood of the fish which is key to putting together the pieces of the puzzle.

Now lets add a camera to the equation if you have one.  If you have an underwater camera, this is a perfect time to drop the camera and see how the fish are reacting.  If you can get fish to bite on camera, you will do very well,  no matter what the conditions are.  Since the conditions are so cold outside, slowing down some and sitting on top of your fish and trying to pluck a few of those tough biters with a camera is a great way to beat the pressure.  A camera will give you that visual so you can actually see the fish approach your bait.  You can watch them move forward or backward, depending on what you do.  This information provides a couple more crucial pieces to the puzzle.

You have now deployed all your technology and still think the bite is tough.  This is where you have to start thinking about the situation.  You noticed the fish will chase some, but will not bite.  Time to change up your presentation.  As a rule, under these conditions I would go small.  Small bait, small jigs, small minnows or whatever I am using, under tough conditions it is going to be small.  The next rule of course is slow.  Instead of fast or aggressive jigging action, you have to slow it down.  Sometimes little to no movement is the key and sometimes it is just a slow steady take away that will get them to commit.   When I say slow, I mean slow.  But, use the technology you have to determine the best approach.  Ninety percent of the time the slow takeaway is deadly under tough conditions.  Just pull it away from them at a very slow and steady speed and they usually can't resist.

Yes, these times can be frustrating but that doesn't mean that the fish won't bite.  By doing even a few of the things mentioned above you will put more fish on the ice in tough conditions.  Remember, if you let the conditions beat you, they will!  You can get fish to go under the worst conditions because they are always biting somewhere!  This is something I have to remind myself a lot when things get tough.

When Crappies go negative it is time to get aggressive, well kind of.  I know this is the opposite of what most would think, but if you give it a try you just may find midwinter crappie fishing a little better.  There are various factors that make crappies go into a negative mode throughout the season and even throughout the day for that matter.  For today I won't get into what makes fish turn negative but rather what you can do to put a few more on the ice.

For many, a crappie minnow under a slip bobber is the gold standard for crappie fishing.  In fact, it may be all you know of crappie fishing and it is very effective at times throughout the year.  Growing up, this was how we fished crappies and were very successful.  My approach to fishing crappies has changed significantly over the years with the advances in technology and lure choices available for just about every application. Where years ago my choice was either a plain hook or a Demon Glow jig, I have now added a lot more to my arsenal and it makes getting those negative crappies possible.

When crappies go negative my first choice in bait is a #6 Demon Jigging spoon.  It is very hard to beat the #6 Demon Jigging spoon in Glow with the Red Spot.  For years this was my go to demon jig, but now that you can get it in a jigging spoon, all the better.  I tip this with two Berkley PowerBoat Microwigglers and off I go probing the depths, hole to hole looking for crappies.  The great thing about crappies when they are in a negative mood, they don't move much so when you find them, you got them.

Once I find crappies I slowly work them with my jigging spoon tipped with the Microwigglers.  The key to this is to NOT jig the jigging spoon.  After all, these fish are negative and not interested in feeding, but they will chase, it is their nature.  They will follow that jigging spoon up, and up and up.  The key is to get them to chase to the point that they have to either eat or head back down to the school.  With most negative crappies if you can get them to chase up over 2 feet you got them.

Again, the jigging spoon is considered an aggressive approach to ice fishing, but it does not have to be fished that way.  Use your electronics to read the fish.  If you get a crappie following and they stop chasing, you did something they did not like.  Go back down to just above the school and try to get one to chase and start the process all over again.  I promise if you work those negative crappies just like I mentioned above you WILL put more fish on the ice this winter.

I just got a question from Brent who was looking for my advice on the best pair of mitts available for ice fishing.  The kind that keep you warm all day and don't get all wet.  Once again, I have to thank a reader for asking an important question about something that I often overlook or take for granted.

This year I am wearing the Snosuit Gauntlet Mitts and Gloves and they are unbelievable.  Think of the quality and warmth associated with Snosuit and put them into a Glove and mitten.  Not only are they great for ice fishing, snowmobiling and ATV use but I wear them plowing snow and shoveling.  They are very durable gloves/mitts and they are super warm.

Once again Snosuit has put out a top-of-the-line product that benefits us all.  If you are in the market for a good pair of gloves or mitts, it is worth checking them out.  Those cold hands I used to get drilling holes or snowmobiliing miles to my spots are gone.  I don't actually wear them fishing because I rarely wear anything on my hands while fishing but they sure make those cold jobs much easier.  Thanks again to Brent for the question.

You can read more about the product if you follow this link  http://www.frabill.com/store/snosuit-gloves.html

This is going to be very short and to the point.  If you own anything that has a 12V/Cigarette Lighter on it, get yourself one or three of these and put them in it. For years I have been carrying one of these in my ice vehicles and you can not imagine how often I end up using it.  This is an trip saver and everyone should have one.

Just about everything we use on the ice runs off battery.  I know everyone has a story about getting to their hot spot and they have a dead battery their flasher, camera, etc.  I know I have countless stories and it can be frustrating.  I have the luxury of carrying back-up equipment and back-up batteries but I still end up needing this unit a half dozen times a year.  As simple as I can put it, get one of these-it will save your day!  Below is a link to the product and the specs:

 http://store.humminbird.com:80/products/322950/AD_ICE1